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Media Contact:Darryl Roberts
darryl@snapcats.org
707.836.6000
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UPDATED: 1/1/18


SNAP CATS RACE TEAM!

SNAP Cats Race Car

Follow driver Nicole Jacque as she drives race car Team SNAP Cats in her quest for the checkered flag. Her schedule will be posted shortly, with results added after each race.

Help support SNAP Cats by donating based on Nicole’s finishes. Pledge to donate an set amount for a first place, second place or third place finish. All donations go into the SNAP Cats medical fund. Thanks!


FOLLOW OUR RESCUE OF MR. JEREMY FISHER FROM CAIRO!

This is Mr. Jeremy Fisher. He will be arriving at SNAP Cats from Cairo, Egypt, on June 5th. Jeremy (Jerry) has mobility issues in his rear legs. It looks as if he’s swimming (hence the name, Mr. Jeremy Fisher).


FOLLOW OUR RESCUE OF GINGIE FROM KUWAIT!


OUR RESCUE OF FIVE SPECIAL NEEDS KITTENS FROM LEBANON!

Lebanon Kittens


OUR RESCUE OF LIVINGSTONE FROM MOZAMBIQUE, AFRICA!

Livingstone


SNAP CATS RESCUES KITTEN WITH MODERATE+ CH FROM LOS ANGELES HIGH KILL SHELTER

Networking with their southern California contacts, SNAP Cats rescued three month-old kitten Andi, who has moderate+ cerebellar hypoplasia (CH). Andi would’ve been euthanized due to her condition. As you can see below, Andi is full of life (and very hungry). Thanks again to Pilots N Paws, especially Pilkot maurice, for flying little Andi to safety.


LIVE STREAMING FROM SNAP CATS

In addition to our four webcams powered by MeShare, we’ve added a new camera and service in our kitten room. Click on the picture below to watch our kitties live and with sound on LiveStream.

PLEASE NOTE: You have to register with LiveStream to watch, but it’s a free service.


SNAP CATS HAS A NEW HOME

After almost three years of searching for the perfect location for the new home of SNAP Cats, Founder/Executive Director Darryl Roberts finally signed a deal on a house in Santa Rosa, CA.

“We were looking for something extremely special; a home that fits our organization, our goals and our special needs cats,” says Roberts. “I was starting to think it didn’t exist. Then I came across this 1900s school house with an additional extra large room added on. We have 1900 square feet that can be divided into two large sections: one for younger cats and one for older cats. It‘s the perfect setup for SNAP Cats.”

The house, which is situated on 2.25 acres off of Petaluma Hill Road, also presents SNAP cats the opportunity of rescuing FeLV+ cats, which is the goal Roberts set from the beginning.

“Too many FeLV+ cats are euthanized because there are so few rescues/sanctuaries that can take them,” Roberts explains. We had to relocate two FeLV+ cats to Walla Walla WA this part year because we didn’t have the proper setup in our old facility. Now we have a totally separate room that we can house FeLV+ cats, giving visitors a chance to see and interact with them while keeping our general population safe and healthy.”

Once the new home has completed renovation, Roberts expects to double the number of special needs cats that SNAP Cats can rescue.

“There will never be enough room to save every special needs cat. But we can certainly help more now that we have a bigger home. And with more visibility to the general public we should see an increase in adoptions and fosters. It’s a win-win for us, our cats and the community.”

Visiting SNAP Cats is currently by appointment only. Starting February 1, 2016, regular visiting hours will be set. The facility is offers free wifi, coffee, tea and all the love special needs cats can offer.

“We want to make our home as comfortable and inviting as possible,” Roberts explains. “We want you to see our cats in a home-like environment so you’ll get a better idea what they’ll be like in your home. Sip some coffee and/or tea, sit back, relax, check email and make yourself right at home. Maybe one of our special cats will cuddle in your lap to keep you company.”

For more information on SNAP Cats’ new home contact Darryl. Thanks.


SNAP CATS (AGAIN) RECEIVES $200 DONATION FROM SUMMIT STATE BANK

For the second year in a row SNAP Cats was voted the “top” non-profit at the Summit State Bank Healdsburg Business Fair vote-off. Three non-profits competed for the $200 prize and SNAP Cats walked away with the check. Thank you Summit State Bank for your generous donation and thank you to everyone who voted for us! (Oh, and if you’re wondering about the costumes, we just happened to catch “The Vine Girls” at our Summit State bank branch in Healdsburg. It is halloween weekend after all!)


SNAP Cats introduces SNAP Wraps©, the stylish way to keep your special needs kitty dry and happy, while keeping your home clean and odor free. Our diapers are extremely absorbent, waterproof and machine washable, while our ACCESSORIES are light, durable and easy to clean. No more ugly disposables and snail trails on your floors. SNAP Wraps© are the smart and economical solution for you and your special needs kitty.

Click on the image above to see our new line of SNAP Wraps©!


SNAP CATS RAISES $1,100 AT MONTGOMERY VILLAGE SUMMER CONCERT SERIES

As the sole beneficiary of all beverage sales, SNAP Cats raised more than $1,100 at the Summer Concert Series hosted by Montgomery Village (Santa Rosa). We couldn’t have done it with out the help from those pictured above (left to right): Michael, Darryl, Patti and Janice. They were awesome. Thank you!


GRACE IS READY FOR ADOPTION!


Before

After

On August 17th, SNAP Cats rescued Grace, a two year-old DMH Tabby, from the san Francisco ACC where she was admitted with a broken pelvis in two locations, and neurological damage where she dragged her back legs. Through generous donations, SNAP Cats was able to care for Grace. We entrusted our uber tech team lead by Dr. Erin Bennett to nurse Grace back to health. And they did! Grace is now a healthy, happy cat and ready for adoption!

If you’re interested in adopting Grace please email Darryl: darryl@snapcats.org.


SNAP CATS’ FOUNDER/EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR DARRYL ROBERTS ON RESCUE

This segment is from the forthcoming yet untitled documentary on the rescue of Dmitri, a special needs cat that beat all the odds. A full-length documentary on Dmitri’s rescue will be available shortly. For more information and/or more video and pictures from this journey please contact Darryl. Thanks.


SNAP CATS RESCUES SPECIAL NEEDS KITTEN FROM HIGH-KILL SHELTER

Through a network of rescues (SNAP Cats, Kitten Rescue LA, and Ziggy and Friends Cat Rescue), volunteers, pilots and animal welfare advocates, SNAP Cats rescued a kitten with severely deformed rear legs along with her sister from the high-kill Downey Animal Shelter (CA). The kittens, now named Leia (deformed legs) and Lucy (non-special needs), arrived in Santa Rosa on June 21 via Pilots N Paws. It took three animal rescues, four volunteers, a foster care giver, and two flights to get them here, but we did it!

Below is their first hour at SNAP Cats.

This rescue would not have happened without: Renee Lauper for alerting us to Leia; Robin Collett who informed us about Kitten Rescue LA; Ben Lehrer, President, Kitten Rescue, LA who worked with us to get Leia and her sister, Lucy, out, and found a foster for them; Ziggy and Friends Cat Rescue who worked with Downey Shelter to get Leia & Lucy out; Eden Dambrosio who fostered the kittens; Amanda Lively who drove Leia & Lucy 100 miles Sunday morning from Burbank, CA to their flight in Riverside, CA; Pilot Bruce of Pilots N Paws who flew the kittens from Riverside to Modesto; Pilot Sue who flew the kittens from Modesto to Santa Rosa, CA. And Michelle Alyward who coordinated the flights for Pilots N Paws. It takes a network! Thank you!


DMITRI FLIES TO HIS NEW HOME AT SILVER CLOUD SANCTUARY

On June 13, 2015, Dmitri (and another FeLV+ kitten named Butter) boarded a plane with Darryl Roberts, Executive Director of SNAP Cats, and Rob Olmsted, Director/Producer, RGO Advertising, and headed to Walla Walla , WA and their new, forever home at Silver Cloud Sanctuary. SNAP Cats isn’t currently equipped to take FeLV+ cats, so Darryl needed to find another rescue/sanctuary that could take Dmitri. After learning of bay Area FeLV+ kitten, Darryl arranged for both cats to be flown to Silver Cloud. here’s the entire story:


GREAT ARTICLE ON SNAP CATS IN THE PRESS DEMOCRAT

For more information please contact Darryl.

 

Hypoallergenic Cats: The Best Cats for People with Allergies

Hypoallergenic Cats
Best Cats for People with Allergies

Provided by Pet MD

Want to adopt a cat, but suffer from allergies? Some feline breeds are considered “hypoallergenic,” which means they produce fewer allergens than others. Cats do produce pet dander, a common allergen, but the culprit for the estimated 10 percent of the population who are allergic to cats may be a protein, Fel d 1, that is present in cat saliva.

Technically, there is no such thing as a 100 percent hypoallergenic domestic cat (or dog). If your allergy is not severe, these breeds should come pretty close. The following is a guideline which petMD recommends for people who want to adopt a feline, yet feel their options are limited due to allergies.

DEVON REX
Just independent enough to be an ideal cat for working families, the Devon Rex will shower its people with love and attention when they are around, and stay out of trouble when they are not. And, because it sheds very little, it does not shower the home in hair.

CORNISH REX
The Cornish Rex is a strikingly unusual cat; small to medium in size with an egg-shaped head, long legs, and large ears. Affectionate and attention-seeking, the Cornish Rex is a high energy cat that bonds well with its human family.

JAVANESE
The Javanese possesses a high degree of intelligence and seems to understand when spoken to. It will look a person straight in the eye and answer with a meow. In fact, the cat is well-recognized for its excellent communication skills. Javanese are also loyal to a fault and can be easily trained.

SPHYNX CAT
Though they appear to be hairless, many Sphynxes are actually covered with a fine gossamery down which can only barely be felt or seen. Because of its fineness, the skin of the Sphynx is often compared to warm suede. It is often heavily wrinkled around the shoulders, between the ears, and around the muzzle. A well-behaved, high energy cat, the Sphynx is a true extrovert who loves human attention and will show off to keep it.

BALINESE
The coat on the Balinese is of a silky texture and single coated, with only minimal shedding. In fact, the Balinese is noted for its lack of shedding amongst long coated cats. Speaking and interacting with humans is what it is most fond of. This breed is ranked as one of the most intelligent of cat breeds, and is also remarkable for its good humor, good nature, and high energy. Getting along well with both animals and people is one of the strongest qualities the Balinese possesses.

ORIENTAL SHORTHAIR
The Oriental Shorthair is long and slender, with large ears and piercing almond-shaped eyes. It is a member of the Siamese family. However, unlike the Siamese, the Oriental Shorthair comes in over 300 colors and patterns. It is also less “talkative” than the Siamese, but is still fond of chatting and is never too tired to strike up a “conversation.” This is a cat that needs to be the center of attraction. Lavish an Oriental with love and it will return it in full measure.

RUSSIAN BLUE
The Russian Blue was named for its coat, which is lavender at the base (root), darkening along the shaft up to the tips of the guard hairs, which are tipped in shimmering silver. One of the more curious and amusing features of the Russian Blue is its “smile.” It has a slightly upturned mouth, which is frequently compared to the enigmatic Mona Lisa smile. The Russian Blue can spend hours amusing itself and does not mind an awful lot if it is left at home alone for the day, but it will be very happy to see you when you do arrive. Elegant, and reserved, this cat is also very playful, and loves to chase after toys and sunbeams.

BENGAL
Though it is not a lap cat, the Bengal does enjoy human company and will often stay close to its family members. The Bengal particularly enjoys the company of children, since its energetic nature makes it very fond of playing games.

COLORPOINT SHORTHAIR
The Colorpoint Shorthair is a first-cousin of the Siamese, and like its cousin it is a born extrovert, making friends easily, chattering persistently, and showering its owner with love. The Colorpoint is also remarkably sensitive to moods. If someone is moved to tears while watching a tragic movie, this cat will try to bring them comfort.

SIBERIAN
The Siberian does not blend easily into the background. It is a large cat, with a lush double coat. This may seem counter intuitive at first, but remember that it is not the hair that makes a cat allergenic. The Siberian is notable for having a low level of the Fel d 1 protein in its saliva, so people with relatively mild allergies will often be able to tolerate living with this affectionate breed.

PROBLEM SOLVED?
Now that you know which cat breeds are least likely to set off your allergies, before you go out and search for one to bring home, you may want to check in with your own doctor first. Remember that hypoallergenic does not mean 100% dander or Fel d 1 free. Depending on the severity of your allergy, or if you have asthma, a companion animal may not be a good choice. Also, even for mild allergies, it is best to keep the bedrooms cat-free zones, vaccuum the furniture and floors often, and wash hands always after petting the cat.

To learn more about pet allergies, visit the American Lung Association.

Feline House Soiling

Feline House Soiling

Provided by the Cornell Feline Health Center, Cornell University

House soiling is the most common behavior problem reported by cat owners. It includes urination and/or defecation outside the litter box, as well as urine spraying.

Why do cats eliminate outside of the litter box?
One common misconception is that cats soil in inappropriate places for revenge. It is tempting to conclude, “He defecated on the living room carpet to punish me for leaving him for the weekend.” But this kind of calculation requires sophisticated cognitive abilities that cats aren’t believed to possess. Furthermore, this conclusion assumes that cats view their urine and feces as distasteful, when in fact they do not. It is only we humans who view it that way.

Medical Problems
So why do cats urinate or defecate on your bed or carpet? Medical problems are one possibility. Inflammation of the urinary tract may cause painful or frequent urination, inability to urinate, bloody urine, and crying during urination. An affected cat is likely to eliminate outside the litter box if he comes to associate the box with painful urination, or if he has an increased urgency to urinate. In addition, kidney, liver, and thyroid diseases often lead to increased drinking and urination. Inflammation of the colon or rectum, intestinal tract tumors, intestinal parasites, and other gastrointestinal conditions may cause painful defecation, increased frequency or urgency to defecate, and decreased control of defecation. Age-related diseases that interfere with a cat’s mobility (for example, arthritis, nervous system disorders, or muscular diseases), or with his cognitive functions can also influence his ability to get to the litter box in time. In short, any medical condition that interferes with a cat’s normal elimination behavior can lead to house soiling.

Litter Box Aversions
Behavioral problems, such as litter box aversions, inappropriate site preferences, or urine spraying can also lead to house soiling. An aversion implies that there is something about the litter box that your cat finds unsavory. It could be the box, the litter, the location of the box, or all three.

Something about the litter box bothers your cat

  • The box contains harsh odors. The litter box may have an offensive odor if you clean it with harsh chemicals. Or, if you don’t clean it enough, the box may smell strongly of ammonia (a normal byproduct of urine). In either case, covered litter boxes hold in and amplify such odors.
  • The sides of the box are too high. Cats with painful legs, sore joints, or other mobility problems may have trouble getting into a box with high sides. Kittens have similar problems. Something about the litter bothers your cat.
  • The litter is dirty. Cats usually prefer clean litter.
  • The texture of the litter is distasteful. Your cat may have a preference for finer-textured clumping litter over coarser non-clumping litter—or vice versa.
  • The scent of the litter is unpleasant. Most cats prefer non-scented litter. The location of the litter box bothers your cat.
  • The box is in an unpleasant area. Avoid placing the litter box in a high-traffic, noisy, dark, or dank area.
  • Your cat is afraid to use the box. If another cat, dog, or human terrorizes your cat when she’s in the box, or ambushes her as she exits, she may avoid the box altogether.
  • Cats with aversions usually eliminate on varying surfaces. You may find puddles of urine and/or feces on either soft surfaces like carpets, beds, or clothing, or on hard, shiny surfaces like tile floors or bathtubs. Depending on the severity of your cat’s aversion, he may continue to use the litter box, but only inconsistently.

    Inappropriate Site Preferences
    Alternatively, your cat may develop a preference for eliminating in a spot other than the box. Preferences can be categorized as follows:

  • Another surface is more desirable for elimination. Cats that prefer certain surfaces usually stick with that choice. For example, a cat that finds it more pleasing to eliminate on soft surfaces like clothing or carpets would be unlikely to use tile floors.
  • Another location is more desirable for elimination. This usually results from an aversion to the current box location.
  • As with aversions, cats with preferences for certain surfaces or locations may continue to use the litter box inconsistently. One cause for house soiling may lead to another. For example, a cat with a urinary tract disorder that can’t make it to the litter box in time will urinate wherever she is. She may then develop a preference for the new site and continue to eliminate there.

    Urine Spraying
    When your cat rubs against your leg with his face, or scratches his scratching post, he is also depositing his scent from the glands in his cheeks and paws. Another equally normal but less pleasant marking behavior is urine spraying–the deposition of small amounts of urine around a given area. Spraying announces a cat’s presence, establishes or maintains territorial boundaries, and advertises sexual availability.

    Cats usually spray on vertical surfaces, like the backs of chairs, or walls. They don’t squat to spray (as they do to urinate), but the tail lifts and quivers, and small puddles of urine are left in several consistent locations. Cats that spray are usually unneutered males and, to a lesser extent, unspayed females, but 10% of neutered males and 5% of neutered females also spray. In households with more than seven cats, the likelihood of spraying is high.

    Cats may spray when they perceive a threat to their territory, such as when a new cat enters the home, or when outside cats are nearby. New furniture and carpet smells can prompt spraying as well. Cats may also spray out of frustration resulting from factors—like restrictive diets, or insufficient playtime—often wrongly perceived by humans as revenge.

    My cat is not using the litter box reliably. What should I do?
    First, address the problem promptly. The longer the behavior persists, the more likely it is to become habit. If you have more than one cat, you may need to separate them until you can identify the responsible party. Alternatively, your veterinarian can provide you with a special non-toxic stain given by mouth that will show up in the urine. In cases of defecation outside the box, you can feed one cat small pieces (about twice the size of a sesame seed) of a brightly colored non-toxic child’s crayon that will show up in the feces. If you find urine puddles in the house, it is important to distinguish between spraying and other forms of house soiling. Watch your cat for signs of spraying—or set up a video camera when you’re not around.

    Once you have identified the house-soiling cat, it is wise to take him to your veterinarian for a thorough physical examination and appropriate diagnostic tests to see if there are underlying medical problems. Cats with medical conditions may not always act sick. Once medical causes have been ruled out, your detective work begins. Here are some patterns that may point to a cause:

  • Is there one type of surface upon which your cat eliminates? If so, she may have a preference for certain surfaces, and you can modify your litter to match it. If she likes soft surfaces like carpeting, buy a softer, finer litter, and put a carpet remnant in her box. If she has a penchant for smooth, shiny surfaces, consider putting tiles in her box, covered with only a small amount of litter. Over time more litter can be added.
  • Is there a certain location she prefers? She may have developed a preference for a new area because something bothered her about the old area. Try placing a litter box in her “preferred” location. Once she reliably uses it, gradually move the box just a few inches a day back to the desired location. Stop moving the box if she stops using it; instead simply move it back to the spot where she last reliably used it, then gradually begin moving it again.
  • Is yours a multi-pet household where another animal terrorizes your cat while she’s in the litter box or as she exits? If so, the cat may be afraid to use the box. If you currently use a covered box, replace it with one that gives her a 360-degree view. This will give her more confidence while she’s in the box and make her less prone to ambush. Also, position the box so that she has more than one way out (i.e. don’t have the box surrounded on three sides). Finally, place multiple boxes in multiple locations to give your cat more options.
  • When your cat uses the box, does he cry, refuse to bury his waste, perch on the edge of the box without touching the litter, or eliminate right near the box?
  • If so, first be sure the box is clean. Some cats refuse to use a box containing any urine or feces whatsoever; meticulous litter box cleanliness is necessary for these individuals. (See “Keeping the Litter Box Clean.”)
  • Your cat may dislike the litter you use, especially if you’ve recently and suddenly changed brands. If you must switch brands, do so gradually, adding more of the new litter to the old with each cleaning. Most cats prefer their litter unscented, and an inch or two deep.
  • The box itself may be the offender. Larger cats need bigger boxes, and kittens and elderly cats need boxes with low sides. Although humans like covered boxes for reducing odor and stray litter, from your cat’s point of view, covers hold odors in, and restrict his view of the area. You may need to purchase several types of boxes and several types of litter to determine which combination your cat likes best. Finally, provide as many boxes as there are cats in the house—plus one. For example, if you have two cats, there should be three litter boxes. This decreases competition and gives each cat a box of his or her own.

    How can I stop my cat from spraying?
    Because spraying is different than other types of house soiling, different tactics are necessary to manage it. First, because there are often hormonal components to spraying, any intact animal should be neutered or spayed. Next, identify the stimuli that cause your cat to spray. If outside cats are responsible, motion detectors that trigger sprinklers can be used to deter them from coming onto your property. Additionally, you can discourage your cat from looking outside by closing blinds or shades, or by placing double-sided tape or electronic mats that deliver mild shocks onto your windowsills. Address possible sources of frustration that may be causing your cat to spray. For example, introduce a new diet gradually, or discontinue it until the spraying is under control. Increasing the amount of playtime for an under-stimulated cat may also help ease frustration.

    Spraying can also result from territorial disputes between cats in the same household. They may need to be separated and reintroduced slowly, using food treats to reward and encourage peaceful behavior.

    Applying odor neutralizers anywhere your cat has sprayed may prevent him from spraying there again. Another useful commercial product is Feliway®, a synthetic pheromone that, when applied to household surfaces, mimics the scent of cat cheek gland secretions. Many cats will not spray on areas that have this scent. (See the end of this brochure for information on where to purchase the above-mentioned products.)

    Will medications stop my cat from house soiling?
    Spraying is more responsive to anti-anxiety drugs than other types of house soiling. However, medication is only part of the solution, and must be used in conjunction with environmental changes. Any medication can have potentially damaging and/or unwanted side effects, and not all cats are good candidates. Cats placed on long-term medication must be monitored closely by a veterinarian.

    What can I use to clean my cat-soiled carpet, couch, and other household items?
    Cats will re-soil and spray areas previously impregnated with their scent. Therefore, cleaning up your cat-soiled belongings is important, not only to undo the damage, but to break the cycle of elimination. Because it is much easier to eliminate odors in recently-soiled areas, clean them as soon as possible. A cat’s sense of smell is far keener than ours; therefore odors must be neutralized, not just deodorized. However, avoid cleaning products containing ammonia or vinegar—they smell like urine and can be irritating.

    What other methods should I consider?

  • Sheets of plastic, newspaper, or sandpaper, electronic mats that deliver harmless, mild shocks, or a carpet runner with the nubs facing up may all discourage your cat from entering a soil-prone area.
  • Try changing the significance of a soiled area. Cats prefer to eat and eliminate in separate areas, so try placing food bowls and treats in previously soiled areas. Playing with your cat in that space and leaving toys there may also be helpful.
  • Try denying your cat access to a given area by closing doors, or by covering the area with furniture or plants. Baby gates will not keep a cat out of a room.
  • Catch him in the act. A bell on a breakaway collar tells you his whereabouts. If you can catch him within the first seconds of his elimination routine, startle him with a water gun or shake a jar of pennies, so that he associates being startled with those actions. It is important that you startle rather than scare him; fear will only worsen the problem. Moreover, if you catch him after he’s eliminated, your window of opportunity is gone—you must catch him just as he’s about to eliminate.
  • Never hit, kick, or scream at a cat. Not only does this create more anxiety, which may contribute to house soiling behavior, but also such tactics provide no link between the “crime” and the punishment. Some owners resort to rubbing their cat’s face in their excrement to “teach the cat a lesson.” This is completely ineffective, first because cats do not view their urine and feces as distasteful, and second, because even moments later, cats cannot make the connection between the mess on the bed and this kind of punishment.
  • Conclusion
    A common and frustrating problem, inappropriate elimination can be difficult to control. A full resolution depends on early intervention, followed by detective work to determine the cause of the behavior, and time and effort on your part to solve the problem. In partnership with veterinarians, both cats and the people who love them can live in harmony and good health.

    Helpful hints for preventing litter box problems
    1. Choosing an appropriate litter and box

  • Most cats prefer unscented, finer-textured litter, at a depth of one to two inches.
  • Young kittens, elderly cats, and cats with mobility problems need boxes with low sides.
  • Overweight and large cats need bigger boxes.
  • Have as many litter boxes as cats in the house-plus one.
  • 2. Choosing a good litter box location

  • Most cats prefer a location that is quiet, private, separate from their feeding area, and easily accessible 24 hours a day.
  • Do not locate the litter box up or down stairs if your cat has trouble climbing.
  • Place multiple boxes in different areas of the house.
  • 3. Keeping the box clean

  • If you use clumping litter, remove feces and clumps daily and add clean litter as needed.
  • A liner may help keep the box cleaner, but many cats don’t like them.
  • To clean the box, scrub it with a gentle detergent, dry it, and refill with clean litter. Litter should be changed often enough so that it looks and smells dry and clean. The more cats using the box, the more often this will need to be done.
  • Replace old boxes that smell or are cracked.
  • Suggested cleaning products and resources

    Cleaners/Deodorizers

    Anti-Icky-Poo (AIP)
    Bug-A-Boo Chemicals
    11924 NE Sumner
    Portland, OR 97220

    Nature’s Miracle
    Pets ‘N People Inc.
    27520 Hawthorne Boulevard, Suite 125
    Rolling Hills Estates, CA 90274
    (Also available at most major pet stores)

    Outright Stain and Odor Removal Products
    The Bramton Company
    P.O. Box 655450
    Dallas, TX 75265-5450

    Oxyfresh Pet Deodorizer
    Oxyfresh USA, Inc.
    P.O. Box 3723
    Spokane, WA 99220

    Pheromone Spray

    Feliway
    Abbott Laboratories
    1401 North Sheridan Road
    North Chicago, IL 60064

    Electronic Mats

    Scatmat/Scarecrow Motion Activated Sprinklers
    Contech Electronics, Inc.
    P.O. Box 115
    Saanichton, British Columbia
    Canada V8M 2C3

    PetMat Radio Systems Corporation
    5008 National Drive
    Knoxville, TN 37914

    Motion Detectors

    Scarecrow
    The Dog’s Outfitter
    1 Maplewood Drive
    Hazleton, PA 18201
    (Motion detector that turns on a sprinkler when activated)

     

    FVRCP Vaccine

    FVRCP Vaccine

    What Does FVRCP Stand For?
    Cats are susceptible to many contagious diseases, most of which are caused by viruses. Fortunately, we have vaccines to prevent our feline friends from succumbing to several of the worst ones. A series of four FVRCP injections (three weeks apart) is given to kittens. The vaccine series is usually started at six to eight weeks of age. It is then given as an annual booster for the remainder of the cat’s life. There are three preventive agents in the FVRCP vaccine. The following is an explanation of each of those agents.

    FVR Stands For Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis
    Rhinotracheitis is a severe upper respiratory infection caused by a feline type 1, herpes-virus. It is most severe in young kittens and older cats, and is one of the most serious upper respiratory diseases seen in the feline species. The virus is airborne and very contagious in susceptible animals.

    Cats with this infection are lethargic, and show signs of respiratory involvement with much sneezing and coughing. There is usually a discharge from the nostrils and the eyes, and a high temperature may be present. Some cats develop pneumonia and occasionally ulcerations in the eyes. Infested cats do not want to eat or drink because the nostrils are plugged and the throat is sore. Dehydration and weight loss are common.

    The disease is debilitating and chronic. Many cats require hospitalization, intravenous fluids and intensive care to help them get over the infection. Antibiotics are given to treat secondary bacterial infections. Some cats suffer permanent damage to the eyes and the respiratory system. Fortunately, the vaccine is an effective preventive agent.

    C Stands For Calicivirus Infection
    There are several strains of caliciviruses that affect the cat. They can cause a range of diseases, from a mild almost asymptomatic infection, to life-threatening pneumonia. Most cases show only evidence of problems in the mouth, nasal passages and the conjunctiva (mucus membranes) of the eyes.

    Early signs are loss of appetite, elevated temperature and lethargy. Later, sneezing, oral ulcers and discharge from the eyes are seen. The course of the disease in uncomplicated cases is short, and recovery may be expected in seven to ten days. Some of the more virulent strains can cause severe symptoms. They may cause rapid death in young kittens and older cats.

    The disease is transmitted by direct contact with an infected cat or object (bowl, cage, brush, blanket, etc.) that harbors the virus. The virus can survive eight to ten days in the environment. Carrier cats can pass the virus into the environment for up to one year.

    P Stands For Panleukopenia
    Panleukopenia (also known as feline distemper and infectious feline enteritis) is a highly contagious disease characterized by a short course and high mortality rate. The disease is caused by a parvovirus similar to the parvovirus seen in dogs. It is very resistant and may remain infectious in the environment for up to a year.

    The disease is most severe in young kittens, but can affect cats of all ages. The first symptom is loss of appetite, followed by vomiting and diarrhea. A blood count usually shows a lowered number of white blood cells, a fact which helps in diagnosing the infection.

    Infected cats usually must be hospitalized with intensive treatment such as intravenous fluids, antibiotic and supportive care. Mortality rate may reach 90% in young kittens under six months, and may approach 50% in older animals. The vaccine is very effective in preventing the disease.

    Feral Cats

    Feral Cats

    (material provided by Forgotten Felines of Sonoma County)

    There are three classifications of feral cats:

  • Total Feral – a wild cat with no previous human contact or only negative contact
  • Semi-Feral – a shy or fearful cat that has had some positive human contact
  • Converted Feral – an abandoned domestic cat that has reverted to semi-feral behavior
  • Feral cats are unowned wild cats, often offspring of abandoned, unfixed domesticated cats. They may form colonies near a source of food. Feral cats will breed and overpopulate very quickly if their numbers are not controlled by spaying and neutering. In many cases feral cats perform a welcome service in the form of natural rodent control, and are often appreciated by livestock owners and farmers. However, it’s still strongly advisable to keep the population under control and prevent unwanted litters of kittens. Even if the kittens are caught and tamed and rehomed, there are always many, many more cats in our county shelters waiting to be adopted, therefore the first choice should be to prevent more babies from being born.

    What is a feral colony?
    A colony is a group of cats that congregate in a specific location. This usually occurs due to a consistent source of food, such as a dumpster behind a restaurant, a barn/field full of mice, a natural body of water, etc.

    What is a caretaker?
    The caretaker is the person who takes responsibility for feeding, providing clean water and monitoring the cats for health problems.

    Is there a difference between a colony in my backyard and a colony in a commercial or public area?
    Somewhat. Whether the colony of cats is in a residential neighborhood, on rural property, or near a business, the same basic guidelines apply. If you want to trap/neuter/release (TNR) feral cats to prevent overpopulation, you should either trap exclusively on your own property, or with the property owner’s permission. If it’s your backyard, ranch, or business, there is no problem. However if the colony is residing on someone else’s property it’s best to get their participation and/or agreement with your trapping arrangements. Keep in mind that the smaller the property, the more chance that the cats will roam outside the property boundary and have an effect on neighboring residences or businesses. The more cats there are, the more “above the radar” they will be to the neighborhood. Controlling the population by spaying and neutering makes for good neighbor relations!

    Will SNAP Cats remove a feral cat from my back yard if I don’t want it to stay there?
    Only in emergency situations. Relocating a feral cat can be a difficult process. We can, however, provide Safe Relocation Guidelines if you are interested in attempting this. First you have to find a willing homeowner and a safe location. Removing a cat from its established territory is only done as a last resort and only if a safe relocation site is available. Once that relocation site is found, the feral cat must be caged for four weeks at the new site so it can become accustomed to the sights, sounds and smells of its new home. In addition, a regular feeding pattern is established. This is the only motivating factor to encourage the cat to stay at its new home. Please contact us for more information regarding relocation. Ultimately, if at all possible, the better choice is to leave the cat where it is, after altering the cat to prevent the undesirable behavior.

    What local services are available to assist the public with feral cats?
    Local shelters can provide (rent) you traps. Once trapped you return the trap and feral cat to that shelter. It’s very traumatic for the feral to be trapped, removed from its environment, then stuck in a cage at a shelter until a barn home is found for it.

    Therefore, SNAP Cats recommends Forgotten Felines. They provide several low-cost spay/neuter clinics per month for feral cats. They loan traps when needed (as available) for people using their clinics. With more than 20 years experience, Forgotten Felines is considered to be feral cat experts. They can offer guidance, information and support for people trying to control a cat population, as well as taming feral kittens, deterring unwanted behavior, feeding guidelines, and, of course, trapping. Forgotten Felines staff and volunteers have a wealth of knowledge to share regarding taming feral kittens, deterrence of unwanted behavior, feeding guidelines, and, of course, trapping. They are standing by to help get you started with managing your colony. Call them to sign up for a clinic – 707.576.7999.

     

    Feeding Your Cat

    Feeding Your Cat

    Provided by the Cornell Feline Health Center, Cornell University

    Because nutrition is one of the most important keys to your cat’s health and longevity, one of your most important responsibilities as a cat owner is to provide your cat with the necessary nutrients required for its growth and maintenance. To do this, it is first necessary to understand what cats need in their diet.

    Obligate Carnivores’ Nutritional Requirements
    Cats are obligate carnivores and are very different from dogs – and people – in their nutritional needs. What does it mean to be an obligate carnivore? It means that cats are strict carnivores that rely on nutrients in animal tissue to meet their specific nutritional requirements. In their natural habitat, cats are hunters that consume prey high in protein with moderate amounts of fat and minimal amounts of carbohydrates. Cats also require more than a dozen nutrients, including vitamins, minerals, fatty acids, and amino acids. These nutrients are the building blocks of various structural body tissues; are essential for chemical reactions (metabolism, catabolism); transport substances into, around, and out of the body; supply energy for growth and maintenance; and provide palatability.

    The important thing to remember about nutrients, particularly vitamins and minerals, is that your cat needs the correct amount-but no more. It is possible to have “too much of a good thing” when it comes to vitamins and minerals; the use of supplements not only is unnecessary but also can be potentially dangerous to your pet’s health. A key point to remember is that cats are neither small dogs nor people. Because of cats’ unique metabolism, what might be good for you might be detrimental to your cat. A high-quality cat food assures an adequate supply of vitamins and minerals in your cat’s diet; supplements should never be added without a veterinarian’s approval. Another important nutrient with respect to overall health is water. Water helps regulate body temperature, digest food, eliminate waste, lubricate tissue, and allow salt and other electrolytes to pass through the body. You should provide your cat with clean, fresh water at all times.

    What Types of Commercial Cat Food are Available?
    Commercial cat foods are formulated as dry, semi-moist, and canned. These products differ in water content, protein level, caloric density, palatability, and digestibility. The differences are primarily attributable to the processing methods used by pet food manufacturers.

    Dry Food
    Dry food contains 6 to 10 percent moisture. Depending on the specific formulation, meats or meat byproducts, poultry or poultry byproducts, grain, grain byproducts, fish meal, fiber sources, milk products, and vitamin and mineral supplements are combined, extruded, and dried into bite-sized pieces. The pieces are then covered with flavor enhancers, such as animal fat, which give them increased palatability. The primary advantages of dry cat food are lower cost and convenience in allowing “free choice” feeding. However, dry food may be less palatable to a cat, and, depending on the types and quality of the ingredients, may also be less digestible than moist food. If you do use dry food, it is important to store unused portions in a cool, dry location, and not to use the food after its expiration date (which is printed on the container). Often owners buy large amounts of dry food that can sometimes last for 3 to 6 months; therefore, checking the expiration date before feeding it to your cat is very important. Lengthy storage decreases the activity and potency of many vitamins and increases the likelihood that fats have become rancid. Storing dry cat food in an airtight container can help prevent nutrient deterioration and help maintain palatability.

    Semi-Moist Food
    Semi-moist food contains approximately 35 percent moisture and often resembles ground- or whole meat tidbits. Meat and meat byproducts are the primary ingredients. They are combined with soybean meal, cereals, grain byproducts, and preservatives. The cost is generally mid-range, and these foods may be more appealing than dry cat food to some cats. Semi-moist food can also be fed free choice. However, after the package is opened, palatability decreases and spoilage increases because of dehydration.

    Canned Food
    Canned cat food has a moisture content of at least 75 percent, making it a good dietary source of water. It is generally the most expensive type of cat food, but it also is highly palatable to most cats, and different varieties are plentiful, which can be helpful if your cat is a finicky eater. Canned food has the longest shelf life when unopened, but any unused portion of opened canned cat food should be refrigerated to maintain quality and prevent spoilage. Gourmet canned cat foods generally feature meats, such as kidney or liver, and whole meat byproducts as primary food ingredients. Some brands, however, may be nutritionally incomplete, and it is important to read the nutrition labels carefully on such specialty cat-food items to ensure that they have a nutritional guarantee.

    How Do I Choose a Food for My Cat?
    High-quality commercially prepared cat foods have been scientifically developed to give your cat the correct balance of nutrients and calories. Basic minimum nutritional requirements for cats have been established by the Feline Nutrition Expert (FNE) Subcommittee of the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), and pet-food manufacturers use these standards in producing cat foods.

    When you’re shopping for a healthy food for your cat, reading the nutrition label on the packages is the best way to compare foods. Pet-food manufacturers are required to supply certain nutrition information on the package. Labeling regulations are established by the AAFCO (www.aafco.org) and the United States Food and Drug Administration. All pet foods that carry an AAFCO approved nutritional guarantee, often referred to as the “AAFCO statement,” are considered to be complete and balanced. These standards were formulated in the early 1990s by panels of experts on canine and feline nutrition. A food may be certified in two ways: (1) by meeting AAFCO’s published standards for content, or (2) by passing feeding tests or trials. Most researchers agree that feeding tests are superior in assessing the nutritional adequacy of a food.

    Throughout a cat’s life, there are stages in which the cat requires different nutrients. These stages include kittenhood, adulthood, pregnancy, and lactation. The nutritional claim on the cat-food label should state the stage of a cat’s life cycle for which the food is a complete and balanced product. It should also state that it meets the requirements of the AAFCO. Feeding a cat a product that does not have a nutritional claim on the label cannot guarantee a complete and balanced diet for the animal. Often owners will find products that say they have been formulated for “all life stages,” which simplifies things for owners with multiple cats of different ages or circumstances.

    In choosing a cat food, it is also important to read the ingredients list. This names all items used in the product, including flavor enhancers, artificial colors, and preservatives. The items are listed in order of decreasing proportional weight. Meat, meat byproducts, or seafood should be listed among the first few ingredients, because that indicates that the food probably contains enough animal-source ingredients to supply essential amino acids and essential fatty acids. Nonetheless, addition of some nutrients (e.g., the amino acid taurine, and B vitamins, including thiamine and niacin) may be necessary to offset the fiber content of the diet or degradation of nutrients that occurs during the manufacturing process.

    Once you have determined that a food is complete and balanced, choosing between the types of food may be a matter of what your cat prefers. Some cats like canned food, some like dry food, and some like a combination of the two. Today’s market offers many well-formulated foods for cats at all life stages, so you can choose the ones that work best for your cat.

    What About Homemade Diets?
    Formulating your own cat food is a difficult and time-consuming process. Also, the nutrients in the formula may not be available in the right quantities and proportions to be beneficial to your cat. It is usually recommended that cat owners use a commercial nutritionally balanced product, unless a veterinarian recommends a home-formulated recipe for medical purposes. Often these recipes come from published sources and are created by veterinarians certified in animal nutrition.

    Can I Give My Cat Treats?
    Giving your cat a treat from time to time isn’t going to do any harm, but there are a few things to keep in mind. Treats should only be fed occasionally. They should not be a steady diet for your cat, because they lack the proper proportion of basic nutrients a cat requires to maintain its health. A rule of thumb is not to let treats exceed 10 to 15 percent of the cat’s daily diet. Also, some foods should be avoided entirely. Although raw meat is an excellent source of many nutrients, it is not recommended as a food or a treat for cats, because it is a potential vehicle for toxoplasmosis and other infectious diseases. Some cats that have consumed canned fish products meant for humans have developed deadly neurological disorders. Also, milk is not generally recommended as a treat for cats. Adult cats fed a nutritious diet don’t need milk, and many cats are lactose-intolerant, which means that the lactose in milk and milk products can cause stomach upset.

    What Else Do I Need to Consider?
    Environmental conditions can affect a cat’s eating habits. For example, heavy-traffic areas, noise, the presence of other animals, dirty food containers, or nearby litter boxes can deter a cat from eating. Try to be sensitive to your cat’s eating behavior, and make necessary adjustments to provide optimum feeding conditions.

    Also remember that cats vary greatly in characteristics such as the amount of food they need to consume to ensure optimal weight and health maintenance. Be careful not to overfeed your cat. Overfeeding can lead to obesity, which is the most common nutrition-related problem in cats. An overweight cat is prone to other health problems such as diabetes and arthritis. Commercial pet foods formulated to help cats lose weight are available. Ask your veterinarian to help you determine the ideal body weight for your cat, and follow your veterinarian’s suggestions on how to adjust your cat’s diet to attain and maintain that weight.

    Although many cats are content to eat a single product, some cats may develop finicky eating habits and become very selective about what foods they’ll accept. Feeding your cat two or three different cat foods provides flavor variety, and may prevent your cat from developing an exclusive preference for a single food, so that if a medical condition dictates a change in diet, your cat may have an easier time adjusting.

    Also remember that not eating can lead to serious medical problems in cats. This is true for sick cats that lack an appetite, for cats on a diet, and for the finicky cat that refuses to eat. A veterinarian should examine any cat that refuses to eat and is losing weight.

    Diets for Obese Cats

    Diet Tips for Obese Cats
    One of the major concerns for all cat owners to watch out for is their cat gaining too much weight. Obesity in pets is becoming more visible and as a good cat owner you want to take care of your cat’s health. This article will provide some tips for obese cats.

    You may be asking why I should be concerned about my cat being overweight. For starters, you may not know which foods are best to feed your cat and how many treats you should give your pet during training sessions. Diet tips for obese cats will provide you with this information so you can have a healthier pet.

    The following topics will be covered: why is obesity dangerous for pets, how can I know if my cat is overweight, facts about feeding cats, establish a regular feeding time, and how are treats different from normal cat food.

    Why Is Obesity Dangerous For Cats?
    Just as obesity is dangerous for humans, it is also for cats. The extra pounds can weight in on their cardiovascular and respiratory systems, exacerbating existing conditions and may cause new ones. Fat pets are prone to injury, more at risk in surgery, and open to other conditions such as diabetes. A list of additional problems is; decreased stamina, diminished immune function, and digestive disorders are consequences of an overweight cat.

    If your cat is severely overweight it can diminish your pet’s quality of life. It is important that you, as the owner, control your pet’s intake of food and treats.

    How Can I Know If My Cat Is Overweight?
    Here is an interesting fact, between 25 to 40 percent of cats are obese or are likely to become obese. So, what can I do about it? Good question. So, here is how you can take action now:

    Monitor your cat’s weight. They don’t get overweight overnight. Keep a close eye on them. Be sure to have your pet exercise daily. Failure to keep your pets weight under control may cause your cat to be a higher risk for diabetes, arthritis and other health related conditions.

    Here is how you can know if your pet is overweight when you gently press down as you are petting her. If you are not able to feel her ribs, consider taking her to the veterinarian for an exam. When any underlying medical causes are ruled out, your veterinarian can help you develop a proper nutrition and exercise program to remove the excess weight.

    Facts About Feeding Cats
    Just as humans require a healthy balanced diet, so do cats. As a cat owner, you can provide your pet with the best quality cat food that has all of the nutrients your pet requires together with a high level of palatability. Do not add any human food to your cat’s diet. Doing so may upset the nutrients of a balanced diet.

    Milk. Here is a little known fact; milk is not a substitute for water. As a food, it’s incomplete and does not provide a balanced diet. Milk contains lactose and requires lactase to break it down in the pet’s intestine. Too much milk can cause diarrhea.

    Raw eggs. Repeatedly giving your cat raw eggs can cause a deficiency of the vitamin biotin which can cause a loss of hair, dermatitis, and poor growth. Restrict this item in your pet’s diet.

    Raw fish. Some raw fish can cause a deficiency of the vitamin thiamine. Signs of this vitamin deficiency include anorexia, abnormal posture, weakness, seizures, and even death.

    Raw meats. Most cat owners think that giving your cat meat is good for them. Usually raw meat does not contain all of the nutrients for a balanced diet. This must be added. Also, raw meat may contain parasites, and cooked meats can be high in fat and do not contain a proper balanced diet. I would stay away from giving your pet raw meat to eat.

    Raw liver. Raw liver fed in large quantities, can cause vitamin A toxicity in cats. Small soft bones, pork chop and chicken bones, should never be given to cats. They may lodge in the cat’s mouth or throat.

    Table scraps. Table scraps will not provide your pet with the proper nutrition your pet requires. Best advice is never to feed your cat table scraps. Once you start, it is very difficult to stop. So, don’t start.

    Supplements. Supplements are not required when a normal healthy cat is being fed a complete and balanced diet. A balanced diet can be found in the pet food you are feeding your cat. The same is true for additional minerals. You can find this with high quality cat food. Be a good shopper and provide your pet with the best quality cat food so you don’t have to purchase supplements.

    Establish a Regular Feeding Time
    This is important for your pet’s digestive health and regular bowel movements. The first step is to determine the correct quantity of food required to maintain a healthy weight. Next, is to establish a regular routine time for feeding your pet. Knowing when your cat will be hungry will assist you when you plan training sessions. Part of your pet’s meal will include treats or rewards.

    How Are Treats Different From Normal Cat Food?
    Everyone one likes to have a treat once in a while. So does your pet. But, what is the difference between a treat and dry cat food? Cat food is higher in nutrition than treats. However, if you want to reward your kitty with a different flavor or texture, than a treat is the ticket. They are like desserts and should be given sparingly.

    Cat food is higher in protein and should make up the bulk of your pet’s diet. Some treats can be nutritional, so read the labels before making your selection. If you offer tidbits that are different from their meals, it will add to your cat’s pleasure, making training more successful. This will also help build a strong bond between owner and pet.

    Treats should not be more than 10% of your cat’s total diet for the day. You will need to watch out here because giving your pet too much treats can be a cause for obesity.

    By following the above diet tips for obese cats will help your pet to stay healthy and have a longer life.